Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Alpaca Shawl



Yarn: Knit Picks alpaca/silk lace weight


Size F crochet hook


Gauge: what makes you happy, it's a shawl!


Size: what makes you happy, it's a shawl! :)


Skeins: I used 6 skeins in total, I believe, for a size that keeps on growing



Chain 5, join with a slip st.

Row 1- Chain 3, make 3 double crochet in the ring, chain 2, then four more double crochet. Ch 3 and turn.
Each 3 double crochet group is called a shell.
Row 2- Make 3 double crochet IN BETWEEN the first and second double crochet of the previous row. Skip three double crochet, work in your chain 2 space the following: (Shell, chain 2, Shell), SKIP NEXT 3 double crochet, make 4 double crochet in the space BETWEEN the 3rd AND 4TH double crochet. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 3 - Make 3 double crochets in between each shell, as before, and make 4 double crochets in the last group. Ch 3, and turn.

Continue for as long as you want to, until you get bored...

--

Edited 3/2008**



someone recently made a not so nice comment on this post, claiming that this was HER "original" pattern, and not mine - and that she could PROVE it was hers because she published in in 2002! gasp!!

I just wanted to say, I never claimed that this was MY original pattern. Considering that the granny square has been around for over 175 years, and has been published several hundred times in various forms over the last 75 years, I don't think anyone can claim that they designed a granny square, or a half granny square. I debated about leaving it up, as I'm all about the copyright laws, trust me -- however, I'm offering this for those who have never seen a half granny square, or thought to use the idea as a shawl. Since I'm not making any money off of it, and granny squares are definitely public demain, I'm fully within my legal rights to keep it up.

Free Pattern - Cable Look Socks in Worstened Weight






Toe Up Cable-Look Socks with Reverse Dutch Heel

By Anastacia

anastaciaknits.blogspot.com


4 ounces of Paton’s Classic Merino Wool, Color 240 leaf green, or 4 ounces of any worsted weight wool

5 - Size 4 dpns, or size needed to obtain gauge


Gauge:

5 sts = 1” over st st




Cable Rib Pattern:


Rnd 1, 2, 3: k2, p2 across


Rnd 4: Insert right hand needle into first two stitches on left hand needle and k1, but leave sts on left needle. Insert right hand needle into first stitch on left hand needle again and k1 and slip the 2 stitches off left hand needle, p2, and repeat across.


Increases – I used lifted bar increase (M1) , but use increase method of your choice.


Rnd 1: Beginning at toe, cast on figure 8 method 4 stitches on 2 needles.


Rnd 2-3: Work even.


Rnd 4: Increase every other stitch and at the same time, divide onto 4 needles, 4 stitches each needle.


Rnd 5-6: Work even.


Rnd 7: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k2, m1, k1) – 24 stitches total.


Rnd 8-9: Work even.


Rnd 10: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k4, m1, k1) – 32 stitches total.


Rnd 11-12: Work even.


Rnd 13: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k6, m1, k1) – 40 stitches total.


Toe finished, begin leg pattern on top of foot only:


Rnd 14, 15, 16: p1, (k2, p2) around, but end last repeat with p1.


Rnd 17: p1, Insert right hand needle into first two stitches on left hand needle and k1, but leave sts on left needle. Insert right hand needle into first stitch on left hand needle again and k1 and slip the 2 stitches off left hand needle, p2, and repeat across, but end with p1.


Repeat fake cable pattern until foot measures length desired minus 2.5”.


Begin gusset:


Rnd 1: Work across top of foot in pattern (needles 1 & 2). On needle 3, k1, m1, k across rest of needle. On needle 4, k across to last stitch, m1, k1.


Work even for one row.


Repeat last two rows for desired gusset area – I worked 6 increases on either side of foot for a total of 12 increases and 12 rows.


Heel will be worked over sts on Needle 3 and Needle 4, starting on Row 1, below.


Row 1 (wrong side): slip first stitch, purl across next 14 stitches; on next needle, purl 5. Turn

Row 2: (right side): slip first stitch, knit across next 9 stitches, turn.

Row 3: Slip first stitch, purl across next 9 stitches, turn.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 three times more, and then repeat row 2 once more.


After knitting last row, you will continue along the side of the flap and pick up and knit 5 stitches on the side of the flap.


Slip first stitch, purl back the 5 stitches you just picked up, the next 10 stitches from your flap, and pick up 5 more stitches along other side of flap – 20 purl stitches. You are left with your original 20 stitches from the bottom of your foot, and gusset stitches to be decreased away.


Sl first st, k1, slip 1 across to last stitch of the heel, and decrease last stitch along with one stitch from gusset.


Turn, and purl back, decreasing last stitch of heel with one stitch from gusset.


Repeat these two rows until all the gusset stitches have been decreased away and you have only 20 stitches.


Knit across the two needles you have been working on, work across the top of your foot in pattern, and continue the pattern around the leg.


Knit even in pattern for desired length of leg, minus 2” for ribbing.


K2, p2 around. Bind off loosely, using Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind off, or other bind off of your choice.

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

crocheted baby socks pattern


Leftover Opal sock yarn (I used Opal Speckles)

  • size 3 mm hook (C-D size)

  • 2 stitch markers


    Gauge: 6 sc = 1 inch


    Make 2 of course!


    Toe:

    Starting at the toe of the sock, chain 4. Sc in 2nd ch from hook &
    each ch across: 3 sc. Working on opposite sides of the chain loop,
    work 3 more sc for a total of 6 sc in the first round. Mark beginning
    of round & work in rounds for rest of sock except where otherwise
    noted.


    Round 1: Crochet 2 sc in every sc around (12 sc)

    Round 2: Work even.

    Round 3: *Sc in first st, 2 sc in next stitch, work from * around (18 sc)

    Round 4: Work even

    Round 5: Sc in first two sts, 2 sc in next stitch. Work 2 sc every 3rd stitch around

    (24 sc)

    Round 6 & following rounds: Work even in sc until sock measures 2.25"
    (approximately 10 more rounds)



    Heel:

    Flatten sock. Ch 1, turn. Working back the way you just came, sc in next 12 sc.
    Chain 1, turn.

    Next Row: Sc in next 12 sc.

    Repeat last row until heel flap measures 1.5 inches. (approx 9 rows) Sock will now
    measure 3.75". End wrong side.


    Turn Heel:

    You will be making a short rowed heel turn similiar to knitting. Ch 1, turn.

    Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, leaving next 4 sc unworked. Ch 1, turn.


    Row 2: Sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, leave remaining 4 sc unworked,
    chain 1, turn.


    Row 3: Sc in next 2 sc, work dec over next sc and in next sc in the row below,
    leaving rem sc unworked, ch 1, turn.


    Repeat last row until all unworked sc have been crocheted into.
    Ch 1, turn.



    Leg:

    Working in rounds again, sc in next 3 sc.
    Working along sides of heel flap, picking up stitches as needed,
    sc across.
    Place marker.

    sc across 12 instep stitches, place marker.
    Sc across heel flap stitches.
    * Continue in sc until 2 stitches before first marker, work dec over
    next two stitches. Crochet across 12 instep stitches (you are at the
    second marker), dec in next two sc. Continue crocheting across back
    of leg & rep from * until you have decreasing back to 24 stitches.
    Crochet around until leg is 1" less than length of leg desired.



    Ribbing:

    Working back and forth in rows again, chain 7.


    Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook & in next 4 sc. Dec in sc in last chain
    & in next sc of the sock leg. Sc in next st, ch 1, turn.


    Row 2: Working in BACK LOOPS ONLY decrease in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, ch 1, turn.


    Row 3: Sc in next 5 sts, dec in next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 1, turn.
    Repeat last two rows around top of sock, slip stitch last & first rows
    together, and end off.

    Weave in ends & enjoy!


    Originally posted at the ptyarn.com website.

  • I got promoted at work :)

    Monday, June 18, 2007

    armwarmers


    Patons classic merino wool - less than a skein will do it
    fingering weight mohair - I used vintage mohair
    scrap novelty yarn - I used Lion Brand Fun Fur


    Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
    Size regular (large)


    Using size 5 DPN (or do 2 at once ala 2s2c, or magic loop), cast on 24 (28) stitches, with one strand of novelty yarn & one strand of the wool.



    Knit 9 (10) rounds. Cut novelty yarn, and turn cuff inside out - I think the fun fur looks better on the wrong side, but keep on the right side if you prefer


    Join mohair, and knit plain for 4 inches. Bind off using E. Zimmermann's sewn bind off, or method of choice.

    Please consider making a pair for charity, as this pattern was originally intended.

    Thursday, June 14, 2007

    ravelry

    I finally got my ravelry invite! I'm AnastaciaKnits, of course. Please add
    me!

    So if I'm not around for a few days, you know where I am!!

    Wednesday, June 13, 2007

    more dishcloths

    Yup, it's more dishcloths!


    A couple of crocheted & one reverse mitered garter stitch cloths.





    And this one is a work in progress - a crocheted scrap cloth, worked from both directions (i.e. you crochet as normal, and you also crochet in pattern from the other side of the beginning slip stitch chain):